Thursday 29 September 2016

Heading west, Reluctant retreat from the alps

Reluctantly as it becomes clearer that autumn is coming (week of rain and snow higher) we leave chamonix and begin our retreat from summer in the alps.

We take a beautiful short trip in the Ecrins (first time) staying near Ailefroide doing a few 250m granite routes in the valley and walking up to Glacier Blanc

Then continuing west, with a pit stop in Verdon for a few routes Gros Lard & Deux doigts dans le Nez.

Pictures explain best!!















Monday 12 September 2016

Valley life

Off to chamonix, only our forth ever visit and very different this time. On this trip we are time-rich and money-poor, usually (relatively) it's the other way round. In past trips we arrive with mountain gear (boots, crampons, axe) and have the money for the valley lift systems to midi, montenvers, index etc. Loads of amazing memories climbing on south face of the midi, above the ever hut, blatiere, brevent and index, and Montenegro Blanc.

This time it's a little different, no mountain gear, and lifts are too expensive for our budget, yet we spend a brilliant month here living cheap and simple in the van exploring the lower valley on foot walking and climbinh and find out there are loads of other brilliant things to do.

From Praz where we found a great free van overnight spot with spectacular views of Les Drus and Aig Verde and access to the Mer de Glace.
Argentiere and access to Aig Rouge, fun slab climbing in le Chezerys, and near Mer design Glace at le chapeau.

Col design Monet and another good overnight spot and some classic bouldering on gneiss.
Vallorcine with easy access to Valloracine de Berard and Mont Oreb with nice 200-300m multi pitch on gneiss.

And to the Swiss border at Barberine with some brilliant granite multi-pitch 250m viper and piola.
Also stretching back into Switzerland at Dorenaz with some fun road side Craggie and a brilliant Remy brothers multi-pitch in sektor Tichodrome.
We did indulge ourselves with one lift pass to climb on Brevent climbing a longer 200m+ route in the morning on the south face and a few pitches on les plaques du Brevent  in the afternoon.

We hung around for an extra week to catch up with a few British friends who were over for a week walking Le Tour, then started our movement west slowly retreating from the alps.