Wednesday 13 December 2017

Trying to get stronger in Spain

Hazy sun in Catalunya


Most of our climbing experience has been onsight climbing (or attempts...) probably because we love multi-pitch adventures, but also because we haven't pushed ourselves hard, this is definitely slowing our progress on difficulty.


This winter we are trying some red-pointing to increase our self belief and push our comfort zones.

We dont have much experience with the red-point process...for us, it will likely involve shamelessly getting the quick-draws in any-means-necessary! working out the moves and rehearsing, sometimes on top-rope when scared...before trying to lead it, and erm...probably...quite a bit of failure!!


Trying Animal 7a+


Brilliant long lines at El Falco


Views to Siurana, Village crags, Cornudella and Montsant



El Falco

Love love love Siurana


Working Remena Nena 7a


Valley crags Siuranella, el Pati, Primanova


Rest days still getting stronger


Belay POV


Birthday girl



Over to Chulilla for warmer evenings!

views from top of Sondaas 7a

View from top of Sendero Luminoso 7a/+

One of the many patient crag dogs of Chulilla...no snacks in those pockets soz


Starting the brilliant sector warm up Long Dong John 6b+


Reflections, stroll through the gorge on a rest day, those walls look pretty good! Time to stop resting


looking down Sondaas after cleaning watching someone start the crux of Blue Agave

Saturday 7 October 2017

Verdon autumn '17

Felt like winter in Chamonix...so we left, in total contrast love being welcomed by the warmth, colours, vibrancy and soul of Verdon in autumn. Here looking across the plateaux perched above the Lake when we arrived few nights ago



Brilliant day working a super classic hard route with new friend Ivan




Hanging out ;-)
 

After a summer in the mountains on granite & dolomiti, slowly adjusting back to limestone, here on typical compact and puzzle-like Verdon Gris, a fun day easing our fingers and toes back into gouttes d'eau. Paula's down there on a pillar in blue and aqua 


View from the Durandal abseil line and lots of autumn colours 


Abseil approach, on the way down "Massacre à la Tronçoneuse", stunning exposure. Sitting atop Massacre earlier we heard voices near the finish of 'La Demande' and saw a group looking over the rim, one body shape seemed familiar from behind (dont ask me how), then that big and slightly goofy smile shone back at us with a wave, Honnold is checking out Verdon with a camera crew, suspect he's not here to do the 6b/+ we're on haha.

 
Down at the 'Luna Bong' juniper tree on abseil approach, beautiful setting, a little intimidating!! Looking down 'Luna Bong', and over to 'Nécronomicon',...Im not ready yet...


Paula throwing the ropes at Luna Bong


Abseiling down Luna Bong looking at all that incredible and blank'ish rock just before going over the roof...

My best friend AND favourite climbing partner 😉 atop 'Massacre a la Tronconneuse' with cool views to the world class Tom et Je Ris. 


Dropping in to Jardin Mediane, oranges...browns...oh...there's a roof...gulp...it gets steep and blank under that...am I going to be able to climb back out? 📷@paularyan2014 


One of the things I love to do after finishing a climb in Verdon, is a recce of a new sector/climb to stoke the psyche for future adventures, here looking down the chute of "le Toboggan de la Mort" 6c+ 250m and the smooth single pitch "Tanti Auguri"


Not bad this cliff....


Crossing the Verdon river to climb on the Paroi du Duc, we managed to avoid all the steep stuff!!





Cave woman soaking up some gorge atmosphere mid route at a comfy belay station on Cat so Angry. Foreground is a Griffon Vulture nest, they nest Jan-Aug so chicks should be airbourne by now!!


So photogenic round here ...sadly her least favourite movement, traversing,...how about downclimbing as a second & traversing...probably best not to repeat her comment on that one...



A recce of the super classic Pichenibule line today, a left leaning diagonal from the ground to the rim "a masterpiece of routefinding" from the late 70s - 300m 6c+ & A0 or 7c...follow the grey in the sunlight from the ground, to the Jardin Ecuriels, then traverse out left and up from the Jardin diagonally to above the yellow scar through the smooth and steep and airy and blank looking crux pitche(s), to the final glory pitch to the rim


Scenes from days out on multi-pitch


sunrise...should be a big day today...best laid plans didn't work out so just a medium day in the end...


There she goes, questing up the grey pockets on the sharp end in sector Eycharme pitch 3 



Working our way up a beautiful line in sector Eycharme, here on a smooth vertical pocketed grey pillar on P4 / 6c
 

Its getting cold...lets go to Spain!!!



Monday 11 September 2017

First time visit to the mythical Val di Mello

First time visit to the beautiful mythical granite playground of the Val di Mello, home to some scary runout friction slabs and some brilliant classic multi-pitch lines.

Kundalini

Paula finishing the hand crack as the angle eases, here on the super classic Il Risveglio di Kundalini 400m / VII- / 10 pitches of trad on bomber granite. What a sweet line, loads of variety; a roof, a long hand crack, an offwidth, a huge arch, a pendulum, slab, loads of traversing - then a beautiful emerald river to cool down in after the descent (which we got wrong!)...we saw two snakes today, thankfully not on the route... .



Setting off under a roof



Looking down the cool arch/roof feature

 
Top out views



Cooling off at Bidet della Casstella after a day


Morning views from Bidet della Contessa



Morning after the storm from our sleep spot. A team were stuck high up on a line near the Bagni road last night as a storm arrived and darkness descended, we heard repetitive shouting and walked down to see if ok or needed help, already there were several locals pulled up helping the retreat   



Laybacking bonanza!! -- Celebrating climbing the beautiful super classic "Luna Nascente" a 360m / VII (E2) granite trad line with 9 pitches of cracks (finger, hands and offwidth), topped off with two technically easy but quite bold (think 35m and one piece of pro, then 25m with no pro) slabs...the idea of it was harder than the reality...we were lucky today with only one other party on the line a friendly Austrian pair who moved well
Ps. What is the best way to fall on a runout slab?




Heading toward the cresent roof leaving one crack system to reach another via a funky down climb then some offwidth



Paula getting in the flow...because there is basically no gear/pro to interrupt her...at all...good job its an easy friction slab



Gazing down P3 and the lush valley   


Fun 50m P7 Hand crack which then shrinks above to Fingers


Lots of splitter hand cracks

Paula looking relaxed

The morning view from the lake


Big enough to bivvy under?

Turning a corner

Top out



 Early morning views down the Val di Mello on our now regular approach walk from our wild camp spot in the Bagni valley. All the good stuff like sectors Asteroidi, Metamorfosi, Dimore and the bigger Qualido are on the left as you walk in following the river from here


this simple lifestyle,...slightly disrupted at the moment...as our lovely nearby river has changed character the last few days after a storm...some video of the water looking a little wilder now ➡...waiting for the sun to return #frolicking #forties #natural #simplelife #rivers #wild #wildcamping