Thursday 12 May 2016

first taste of Big Air + reflections on Buis

South again, through field after field of lavender, headed for the first taste of big air this trip.


[View across to the Echo Logique line and the Heure Zero abseils looking down at a pair (orange) that were following us up.]

Felt the excitement and trepidation on the drive in, seemed to float away once we dropped in for some climbing on the Echo Logique route with the amazing and huge Griffon Vultures soaring around us, Verdon definitely captures the imagination!

 
[Setting off on the final pitch of Echo Logique, past the anchor by the tree. On the left is a section of one of my dream routes La Fete des Nerfs, and the Verdon river below.]

Rain has set in for fews days, so have been reflecting on fun memories from around Buis, we found camping wild in the van easy and for an area we knew little about there's some great variety...Baume Rousse, Malaucene, fun mini multi-pitch on St Julien & Dentelles de Montmirail, and the pretty but definitely nails Saint Leger. It's there I probably could have done a better job choosing the warm-up, the crux turned out to be a wasp nest located cunningly just below the anchor...do they know??


[Everything felt hard this day! Saint Leger fun after trying Gavroche et Mimi Pinson.]
 
 
[Topping out on Refarin Tire Toi in Malaucene, tough start on compact rock with small pockets, thin feet, and a bulge.]
 

[Paula topping out on a fun mini multi-pitch on Saint Julien]


 [In Saint Leger, looking over the river to some north facing steep stuff]

#vanlife notes for Buis

Good first impressions. Slightly bigger town and quite pretty. Everything we need i.e. Wifi at Tourist office, banks, boulangerie, supermarket, fuel. Haven't found service station for van tho…Surrounded by imposing Saint Julien ridge, and with two other venues within 2-3km. After much angst about where to park (town parks were camping banned), and no obvious other spots we drove up to Sain Julien and found a great spot with lovely view looking down to Buis and a Compost toilet. Pretty, peaceful, and good location. Psyched for climbing tomorrow.

Loved Baume Rousse for 6b-7a old competition wall steep vertical Also good 5-6 for Paula she enjoyed. Route quality was good. Return 1-2 more days.

Ubrieux was not so great around six shooter. Bit scrappy and polished. Slabby.

St Julien. Loads of Fun 2-3 pitch options from 5 to high sixes plus some good single pitches. Easy abseils and equipped anchors. Good free van stop with lovely view on way up plus close to town. Would return for several days.

Malaucene is tour de France Ville at bottom of mount ventoux. Lovely solid compact limestone with 2-3 finger pockets. Loved it. Some good 7a to go at. Route quality was good. Bulge like. Would return for few more days

Combe Obscure. Was good. Left wall slabby 5-6b ok. But right wall was compact solid limestone with quality routes and big pockets or balance smeering. Would return for 1  more day.

Dentilles Chaplin

Pretty environment hot hike up in the sun. Fun multi pitch 2-3 pitches 85m. From 5-6c. We both enjoyed would return for few days. Good car park. Public aire between here and malaucene.
 

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